天頤 Yi | 中菜 Omakase
中國菜講究鑊氣盪熱，份量豐富易於共享。因此以廚師發辦（Omakase）形式呈現中國八大菜系，相信在亞州暫時就只有摩柏斯21樓的天頤在做這件聽起來有點吃力不討好的美食任務。
The Chinese culinary tradition tends to emphasize on the concept of abundance, and so the cuisine has a penchant for family style service. As such, Yi at the Morpheus, with a focus on representing the 8 regional cuisines of China in a tasting menu format, has its work cut out for it.
但中菜「不時不食，突顯食材原味」的烹調邏輯，在天頤范主廚對時令愈見成熟的敏感度和烹飪技術配合下，玩起 Omakase，卻令人悟出粵菜中隱含著的美感、靈活多變和食味之豐富。
Executive Chef Fam, with his acuity to seasonality and wealth of knowledge in cooking techniques, is able to create an omakase experience that highlights Chinese seasonal produce as well as the cuisine's beauty and dynamism.
在半年後重開的天頤，摒棄了以往菜式每日改變的堅持，重新設計了每月推出陳新，以時令節氣為靈感的12道菜式菜單，令餐廳能更專心提升客人用餐體驗。
Reopening after a 5-month hiatus, Yi's tasting menu is now inspired by the Chinese solar terms and changing monthly, rather than daily, so that there's more attention paid to the dining experience.
菜單：「夏至」（圖1）
第一道｜毛蟹：魚籽｜糟鹵 （圖2）
開首第一道菜，往往代表菜單規格的標桿和誠意的表述。這道菜把北海道毛蟹、伊朗魚籽醬和中式糟鹵的三種 umami ，碰撞出細膩複雜的味道層次。毛蟹是至陰至柔的細嫩、魚籽醬則富有爆發力，最後再收斂到糟鹵的陳酒甘甜氣息。
Course 1 - Horsehair Crab: caviar, rice wine lee
Combining three ingredients rich in umami: the delicate Hokkaido horsehair crab, the explosive Iranian caviar, and the lingering depth of a Chinese pickle sauce made with aged rice wine lee, this dish confers a complex yet harmonious savoriness, setting the course for the rest of the menu.
第二道｜鮑魚：南非鮮鮑｜紅燒（圖3）
鮮鮑雖然在風味上不及干鮑濃厚，但卻保留了鮑魚的本味和彈性。即席紅燒呈上，菜式充滿美感又能留住溫度。
Course 2 - Abalone: fresh South African abalone, red-braised
While fresh abalone doesn't have as much umami as its dried counterpart, it retains its natural flavors and al dente texture. The dish is finished and sauced tableside, providing a show as well as preserving the optimal serving temperature.
第三道｜湯：花膠｜菌（圖4）
深海鱸魚花膠的鮮美，貫穿了這道顏色慢熬至金黃色的老火雞湯。溫潤舒暢的味道，最後以意大利豬臉頰肉碎提鮮。
Course 3 - Soup: fish maw, mushroom
The gelatin-rich seabass fish maw is pillowed in a glistening golden stock made with stewing hen, with a sprinkle of minced iberico pork cheek. It's soothing and nourishing, just as chicken soup should be.
第四道｜黑喉鯛：欖豉（圖5）
全晚最愛的一道菜式。把粵菜家常蒸魚要做到極致，范主廚決定從每個細節入手。
黑喉鯛肉質較清新緊嫩，適合於夏天享用。先取其鯛魚骨，以5-6小時「吊」成魚清湯，再把黑喉鯛最緊嫩的魚腩部分，用魚清湯以「蒸氣浴」的方式即席（圖6）把魚腩蒸至剛熟後，佐以秘制欖豉和頭抽享用，口腔一下子鮮成了汪洋。
Course 4 - Nodoguro: preserved olives
For the fish course, Chef Fam uses the leaner summer nodoguro in an elevated version of traditional Cantonese streamed fish. The fish bones are used to make a fish stock, which is used to steam the fish belly in a "hammam" tableside. Topped with preserved olives and premium soy sauce, this dish brims with umami. This is my favorite dish of the night.
第五道｜龍蝦：杭椒｜爆炒（圖7）
爆炒是粵菜的精髓，爆炒龍蝦更是相當考慮廚師功力，那一剎那的火喉掌控，足以定斷龍蝦的爽甜度。以鑲了豬肉的杭椒和龍蝦爆炒，惹味非常火喉精準。
Course 5 - Lobster: Chinese chili, stirfry
Stirfry is a quintessential Cantonese cooking technique. And stirfrying an ingredient like lobster, requires precise control of heat and timing. The lobster here is stirfried with pork-stuffed Chinese chili, and it's timed to perfection.
第六道｜和牛：松露｜爆炒（圖8）
以鹿兒島A4和牛跟雞樅菌爆炒，再即席上演一場松露雨，塔斯曼尼亞冬季黑松露為肉味添上豔麗氣場。
Course 6 - Wagyu: truffle, stirfry
The Kahoshima A4 wagyu is stirfried with chanterelle mushroom, and the finished dish is topped with a confetti of shaved Tasmanian black truffle, adding to the aroma.
第七道｜乳鴿：香芧｜吊燒（圖9）
天頤的招牌菜。師父為了把香芧入味於23日大的石歧妙齡乳鴿，想盡了千方百計。先在滷水中加入香茅生浸乳鴿，再在上桌時佐以煙燻香茅葉，最後現點即炸至皮脆多汁，拍照多一秒也嫌太久。（並附上檸檬水洗手，很貼心的服務細節。）
Course 7 - Pigeon : lemongrass, crisped
This is Yi's signature dish. Chef braises the 23-day-old squab in a lemongrass infused master stock, deep fries it to create the crispy skin, then smokes it with burned lemongrass tableside. There is no pretty way to eat this, and so the server provides a side of lemon water for hand washing. A thoughtful touch.
清清味蕾：番厘茄啫喱配話梅泡沫（圖10左上）
把番茄和話梅的譽瓏軒經典組合拆解重組。番茄一口咬下，是帶有自然舒爽酸味的啫喱。一份小啫喱便要用上3-4個日本番茄澄清吊汁炮製，配上話梅泡沫，這道過場小品的呈現和構成都充滿想法，酸甜味道具衝擊性。
Palate cleanser: Tomato gelee with preserved plum espuma
This is an homage to the Jade Dragon signature snack. One slice of this deconstructed tomato requires the juice of 3-4 full tomatoes. Paired with preserved plum espuma, this bite-sized flavor bomb packs a sweet and sour punch.
第八道｜菜：松茸｜上湯（圖10右上）
這道菜充滿夏季時令性。以「地三鮮」為靈感，有時令的覓菜嫩葉，和經香烤後風味更濃厚的松茸。最後佐以烏魚子提鮮。
Course 8 - Veg : matsutake, stock
This dish is the epitome of summer. Inspired by a northern Chinese peasant dish called disanxian (literally "3 treasures of the earth," originally a stirfry of potato, eggolant, and green pepper), this dish sets out to provide the best of summer. Using fresh shoots of amarath as bed, the dish is topped with grilled mastsutake and a generous sprinkle of mullet roe for maximum umami.
第九道｜香苗：海膽｜鹹飯（圖10 左下）
薑蔥、豬油渣和海膽的搭配，就是簡單純粹的美味！如果能做到粵式煲仔飯「咋咋聲」的熱鍋焦香會更完美。
Course 9 - Rice : sea urchin, Minnan salty rice
Pairing allium, crackling, and sea urchin, this play on the Minnan classic is simple but delectable. If this can be combined with a sizzling Cantonese claypot to create a tahdig, it would have been even more amazing.
第十道｜椰皇：雪燕｜蘆薈（圖10 右下）
夏天是享用椰皇的時令季節，加上滋陰養顏的雪燕牛奶布甸和有助消化的蘆薈，嘗用此甜品後，當下有什麼燥熱也頓時消除。
Course 10 - Coconut: tragacanth, aloe vera
No summer menu is complete without coconut. This refreshing coconut panna cotta is topped with tragacanth (natural resin from an Asian legume tree) and flesh of an aloe plant. It's the perfect antidote to the summer heat.
the bed菜單 在 [感想] 台北東區The bed 水煙館適合小酌聚會- 看板NightLife 的美食出口停車場
圖文介紹：https://0rz.tw/5st9v
店家名稱：The bed 川味私房菜 水煙館
消費時間：2012年/11月
地址：台北市大安區忠孝東路4段181巷35弄29號1F
（捷運忠孝敦化站2號出口第一個路口左轉，走至市民大道前一個路口即達）
電話：02-2711-3733
營業時間：平日PM18:00~AM2:00；五六PM18:00~AM3:00
每人平均價位：約500~700/人
可否刷卡：可
推薦菜色：Mojito調酒、哈密瓜水煙
the bed在忠孝敦化站這間是總店，另外在安和路上有分店
最大特色是可抽水煙，朋友說在台北算是較知名的水煙館
店內空間分成很多區，有用餐區、包廂區
店內有許多造型特殊有趣的水煙壺
根據維基百科介紹，水煙是一種起源於波斯的抽煙用裝置
很多人以為水煙味道比香煙淡，故不如香煙危險，但這種想法是錯誤的
世衛及美國的Mayo Clinic研究證實，水煙與香煙對身體的損害一樣嚴重
那天共點了兩支、兩種口味的水煙：哈密瓜、水蜜桃
抽水煙跟抽煙差不多，只是水煙是甜甜的水果味
很像特殊品牌有賣的草莓、檸檬煙那樣，大口抽也會暈
（善意提醒：吸菸有害身體健康，水煙亦同）
濾嘴：20元/個
衛生考量，裝在吸嘴口方便大家使用
老闆特別招待特殊調酒，都是很濃度超高的混酒，灌倒壽星的意圖明顯XD
這杯現場看是藍色的黏稠液體，老闆介紹這杯叫做「藍寶堅尼」
接著老闆特調了兩杯平常夜店不容易喝到的shot
由以下三種酒混合而成的shot，酒精濃度都在70%以上
最令人印象深刻的是這瓶名為「生命之水」的酒，酒精濃度96%非常誇張…
壽星總是難逃被灌酒的命運XD
Mojito：320元/杯，朋友與我都很愛這杯帶有薄荷味甜甜的調酒
Tequila Shot特調：200元/杯，特調所以喝起來跟一般的Tequila Shot味道很不一樣
Blue Hawaii：350元/杯，有椰奶，南洋風味的調酒
綜合炸物（雞翅、薯條、洋蔥圈）：350元/盤
包廂區，大約可坐10來位
這裡的整體環境算是有點老舊，抬頭看就是鐵皮
整體裝潢不走高格調路線，此外沙發坐起來也不是很舒服
朋友聚會聊天、小酌、抽抽水煙還是蠻開心的
店內放的音樂主要是夜店那幾首有點舊的流行歌
印象中有黑眼豆豆的Boom Boom Boom、2NE1的Fire、蕾哈娜的歌
MENU參考價位，跟一般Lounge的價錢差不多，比起安和路上的高檔Lounge便宜
最後結帳總金額7747元，壽星多貼一些，最後約500元/人
含水煙、酒水、炸物等等，其實不會太貴
心得：
1.台北東區知名的水煙館，單點價格不會太貴
2.室內裝潢老舊，並非高檔路線
3.適合幾位好友小酌聚會
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台北人吃喝玩樂
https://x9x8x77.pixnet.net/blog
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