【豬年新景象】時裝業的可持續發展覺醒
時裝或許是當今最好的能夠幫助人類表達自我、獲得愉悅的產業,而如今它卻成為世界上污染最為嚴重和最浪費的產業之一。2018在時裝世界中關於行業可持續性的討論聲可謂此起彼伏,現代傳播集團時裝編輯總監、可持續發展創意機構YehYehYeh創辦人及BoF 500成員葉曉薇稱,「時裝產業再也無法迴避人們對氣候變化、資源短缺、人口壓力等全球緊迫性問題的意識和關心持續加強;時尚圈人也要因為沒有季節、全球化市場、新世代去改變自己的生產模式。」
價值3萬億美元的時裝產業確實成為影響環境的「緊急事件」。根據《聯合國氣候變化框架公約》(UN Framework Convention on Climate Change),時裝業的溫室氣體排放量超過了國際海運和航空業的排放量總和。到了2050年,時裝產業不僅每年產生的碳排放將佔全球總量的1/4,以及逐漸凸顯的困擾全球多數快速時裝(Fast Fashion)和奢侈品品牌的不道德勞動行為,可持續發展已經成為時裝產業無法規避的未來話題。
關於可持續發展,首當其衝的就是皮草產業,2018年底Chanel正式加入由Gucci、Versace、Bottega Veneta、Coach、Stella McCartney、Michael Kors等當下最主流的奢侈品牌陣營,成為國際零皮草聯盟的成員之一,以及全球最大的奢侈時裝電商集團Yoox Net-A-Porter也表示希望在可持續發展和零殘忍時裝方面更進一步,承諾將未來以動物皮草製成的所有產品全部從其網店下架。
另外,「焚燒經濟學」早已成為時裝品牌保持價值的一大秘密所在。H&M早前爆出2013年以來在丹麥焚燒了60噸滯銷衣物,平均每年12噸,引起業界廣泛議論,面對嚴重指控和質疑;奮力維持「奢華和高級」的奢侈品也難辭其咎,Burberry不惜在2017年一年的時間內總共燒毀價值超過2860萬英鎊的滯銷產品。據英國《泰晤士報》報道顯示,在過去五年中,該品牌已經燒掉了9000萬英鎊的產品,並遭股東質疑和環保人士抨擊。環保組織綠色和平(Green peace)的Lu Yen Roloff抨擊道:「儘管價格如此高昂,但Burberry一點也不尊重自己的產品以及它們所消耗的自然資源。」
有分析報告稱,普及的可持續時裝的必要性或許是影響人們去了解的第一步。Global Fashion Agenda的執行顧問及營運總監Caroline Chalmer在「由美至善」可持續時裝論壇上說,可持續是與環境、社會以及道德三方面息息相關的,不只存在於時裝行業的供應鏈,同時包括生產、銷售時裝如何與消費者進行溝通,當然還有消費者如何消費時裝。
2018年,90後及00後對奢侈品市場的整體增長作出貢獻。年輕一代逐漸接受花更多錢購買具有可持續或符合道德的產品趨勢,奢侈品品牌無法否認年輕一代的觀念影響。
彭博新聞社也在專欄文章中指出:「可持續性會成為服裝購買決策時的重點所在,服裝零售商必須在這個問題上隨時做好準備,而不是把對可持續發展的貢獻隱藏在年度報告之中。」時裝機構Thredup的報告就進一步印證了產品的「可持續性」決定顧客的購買行為能否發生,有25%的女性消費者表示將從2019年開始不再購買快速時裝服飾,其中大部分為年輕消費者。
全球消費者的一步步覺醒,奢侈品品牌也在隨時順應這種趨勢,可持續領軍企業開雲集團(Kering)早在16年前就專門設立了可持續發展部門,並承諾在2025年前把環境影響降至40%;為了評估和追蹤生產活動對環境造成的影響,2015年首創了環境損益表(Environmental Profit & Loss)這個開源概念,它將環境影響換算為貨幣價值,從而得出環境損益,其評估範圍涵蓋了從原材料到生產製造的整個供應鏈;LVMH集團也逐步於院校開展可持續發展研究,並在節能減排方面簽訂相關承諾協議,H&M不僅大力推廣「舊衣回收」,且制訂2030年實現100%使用再生或其他可持續來源的材料的計劃。
Ellen MacArthur Foundation的Make Fashion Circular項目倡議負責人Francois Souchet用迴圈經濟(Circular Economy)理念分析可持續時裝面臨的資源環境與發展模式問題:「再迴圈經濟當中主要有三個原則。第一個是從一開始的設計環節就要避免污染和浪費;第二點就是增加產品的使用率,這也能帶來更高的利潤;第三條原則就是進行迴圈不斷的再生,並且將自然的資源能夠反覆的利用、迴圈利用。」
開雲集團首席可持續發展總監兼國際機構事務主管Marie-Claire Daveu告訴《彭博商業周刊/中文版》:「對我而言,可持續是奢侈品行業中最核心的一環,不僅要生產出質量非常高的產品,同時也要保護地球,奢侈品和可持續發展是環環相扣,不可分割的。」
內蒙古鄂爾多斯集團品牌事業部常務副總經理戴塔娜談起中國消費者在可持續消費的觀念和進展上指出,「回到中國文化本身,你會發現中國人其實從歷史上來說,節儉、物盡其用、物盡其美是一種美德,所以00後或者成熟的人,骨子裡還是有這種內容。」
Marie-Claire Daveu對此表示:「中國的90後及00後,他們正在尋求更多關於『透明度』的答案,包括產品的可追溯性,原料的來源,產品的質地,以及是否遵循了動物福利。」
奢侈品線下零售門店也見證時裝業可持續發展的巨大變化,2018年11月,出生於烏拉圭的紐約設計師Gabriela Hearst在紐約麥迪遜大街開設了一家同名「一切都可持續」奢侈品門店,將零售設計的可持續性提升到了一個新的階段。門店裝修及裝飾全部使用環保材料,所售賣服裝所使用的羊毛材料都來自家族牧場,產品包裝採用100%可分解塑料製成。Gabriela Hearst在彭博新聞社採訪中談到,「時裝品牌向員工和客戶展現出實行可持續發展的自豪感,人們同時也會尊崇這些品牌。」
此外,「可持續發展不意味著要停止消費,而是要以更好的方式去消費,從而延伸出以更好的方式去生產,它不是限制,而是巨大的機遇,」 Marie-Claire Daveu在接受採訪中表示。撰文/耿川迪
#時裝業 #可持續 #發展 #覺醒 #動物權益 #皮草 #H&M #Kering #Greenpeace #Gucci #Versace #BottegaVeneta #Coach #Stella McCartney #Michael Kors #LVMH
un green economy 在 民主進步黨 Facebook 的最讚貼文
【民主進步黨 31 週年黨慶外交使節酒會 蔡英文主席致詞全文】
(中文版本:https://goo.gl/HczWgc)
Members of the diplomatic community distinguished guests good afternoon!
Nine years ago I took the chairpersonship of the Democratic Progressive Party for the first time. As many of you may know in the same year the party had just lost the 2008 presidential election.
To rebuild the people’s trust in the DPP I launched a small-donor campaign. I asked the public for their support so that we could get back on our feet again and become a viable opposition party.
I knew regaining the public’s confidence would take time so I didn’t expect the response to come quickly. Within a month a lady who earned a living by washing dishes sent us an envelope. There was 20000 dollars and a note inside. The note said: “I ask for nothing in return but your party to safeguard the sovereignty of Taiwan”.
There were tens of thousands of people like her. They came from all walks of life generously pledging their support for the DPP. They felt strongly about the democratic values the party stood for. They believed the DPP is a force capable of moving Taiwan forward once again.
Today I am here commemorating the 31st anniversary of the DPP with you in my capacity as Taiwan’s ruling party. I am pleased to have the opportunity to say we are delivering on those expectations. We have not shied away from the momentous responsibilities placed upon us.
Since my election I have completed pension reform a task previous administrations were not able to achieve. The number of social housing throughout Taiwan is rapidly increasing. Our long-term care plan is gradually benefitting more and more seniors.
One of our most critical pieces of legislation the forward-looking infrastructure plan has passed. At the same time we are also working to reform the military the judiciary and the tax system.
Our economy is improving too. Export orders have seen 12 consecutive months of growth. GDP growth has exceeded past expectations. Following the announcement of public sector wage increases the private sector is also following suit. The unemployment rate in August was 3.76 per cent the lowest it had been in 26 months.
In addition to this we have taken steadfast and pragmatic steps to broaden Taiwan’s international space and strengthen relations with countries around the world.
Of particular importance are Taiwan’s diplomatic allies. We are grateful to the 15 countries that voiced their support for Taiwan at the UN General Assembly earlier this month. We are determined to work with all diplomatic allies in order to more effectively support their development.
For like-minded countries we are furthering trade and investment ties as well as cooperation on issues like innovation green energy and science and technology. We have kept in close communication regarding the shared security challenges in the region.
Another one of our foreign policy priorities is the New Southbound Policy. We have worked tirelessly for Taiwan to play a greater role in the region particularly in areas of trade investment education tourism and culture.
We’re seeing the dividends of such efforts. Tourism from New Southbound countries has increased by 36.7% from the year prior. Trade is up 19.39%. The number of students from these countries has also increased by almost 10%. All of this has brought Taiwan and New Southbound countries closer together.
Taiwan would not be where it is today without support from international society. The countries you represent have walked with Taiwan along our journey towards a democracy. Together we have witnessed Taiwan’s transition from a net-recipient to a contributor around the world.
Today it is undeniable that Taiwan is an active member of the international community. I’m sure that our efforts in health education human rights regional security and climate change have not gone unnoticed around the world.
In fact we recently released our very first Voluntary National Review documenting our efforts for the UN Sustainable Development Goals.
In the coming years Taiwan’s international participation will continue to face many challenges. Taiwan deserves your support so that as a partner we can contribute to a safer healthier and more prosperous global community.
I started this speech with a story of how one step at a time the DPP regained the trust and confidence of the people.
This story is also relevant for Taiwan’s international situation. Only through continued support from international society even if it is incremental can Taiwan play a greater role around the world.
We have already made our intentions clear. Taiwan is ready to work with each of your countries to create a more democratic secure and prosperous international society. I hope that you will also be willing to work with Taiwan for a better joint future.
I would like to thank you all for coming today. Let us raise our glasses to cheer for our continued friendship. Cheers! Thank you!
新聞稿全文連結:https://goo.gl/HczWgc
un green economy 在 唐鳳粉絲團 Facebook 的最佳貼文
New Renaissance can reform global nations peacefully and digitally
Your esteemed institution will dominate think tank industry with my 4 plans that surely will attract more donation and create New Renaissance to reform China, North Korea and global nations peacefully and create $30 trillion dollars new revenue annual. 4 plans and the new management science will speed global development with prosperity, peace and health for new civilization.
I would like to introduce new management science and technology before the 4 plans that everyone will have equal opportunity to contribute in community and play a role in decision making with direct democracy in order to regulate perceived disequilibrium in human civilization. New management science of direct democracy will not put cat and fish together that is the only way we can keep financial discipline and transparency. Direct democracy is not campaign in every 4 years. It is new life in ICT century. The new management system can sell itself due to the benefit is huge that will create New Renaissance for peace, health and prosperity.
We are so blessed and so lucky to live in ICT era that systematically reform is a matter of finger tips. Human thought and information can transfer so fast and so massive that can perform direct democracy easily with ICT platform. It can start with housing and facility management industry that global residents in housing communities can perform direct democracy to form a global trend of new politics and new management science. We can create equal opportunity in different agendas with ICT platform that will liberate global productivity and lift efficiency to create new revenue $30 trillion dollars in New Renaissance.
Most communities, cities and nations will enjoy the new infrastructure of cloud conference in ICT platform for new management system that can stop human ordeals in politics, finance, education, ecology and economy. New generation will live in prosperity, peace and health with new management science. China reformed in 1980’s with global synergy platform to lift economy tremendously. New Renaissance with new management science will reform global nations in economy, education, politics, ecology and other different agendas that we can cross barrier of time and space to explore new worlds. If we adopt the new management system of direct democracy, we shall live peacefully in New Renaissance that people will not snipe at police any more.
Your institution can lead global think tanks, communities, governments, and enterprises in New Renaissance. It not only will reform management system but also will increase 40% productivity globally that equal to lift $30 trillion dollars revenue annual plus to save resources wasted in mismanagement. Direct democracy is green management for global sustainable development.
ICT sponsors will donate $30 million dollars to the institution annual that can promote New Renaissance and create $3 trillion dollars revenue annual for ICT industry. ICT can fabricate new platform of cloud conference for direct democracy that can apply in housing and facility management industry globally before it can lift to city level, national level and UN level eventually.
A housing community is a small nation. Nation will change when communities change. Residents in housing communities will enjoy surfing new management system to solve unrest and create pleasant environment. New Renaissance will start in housing communities and lift to higher levels accordingly. It will be a project that sells itself and build 200 ICT platforms globally. Each platform will be at the size of Facebook.
Since we can trade stocks directly in NASDAQ, why can’t we use civil power directly in cloud government and cloud conference? Initially we can operate both cloud conference and reality conference synchronously like Dow Jones operating both cloud trading and floor trading. NASDAQ has never operated floor trading since establishment. Literally politics is like the stock exchange. We can trade without brokers in stock exchange as well as in politics.
Everyone has access to information that information can spread massively and quickly without limit of time and space. Global development is the task of how to apply with synergy ICT platform for human activities especially for the public affairs that can lift efficiency, productivity and revenue with new management system to achieve prosperity, peace and health globally.
I am glad to learn we pursue the same goal and we might choose the same approach when we find polluted air in China and India can spread to Japan, America and Europe at the speed of hundreds miles per hour along jet stream in 6 miles height. Particles in polluted air can damage human health as well as catalyze extreme weather globally. We can benefit or hurt consequently with all events happening on the Earth.
What if African will pollute air and water seriously like China and India have done? How soon the Earth will become uninhabitable? Our knowledge and experience convince us the global is a holistic life body. Development should prevent from damaging the holistic life body. We had to protect the holistic life body by all means with new ethics and new code of conduct for sustainable development. The best way to achieve the goal is to operate new management system on ICT platform globally that all people can contribute and play a role in decision making. Everyone can watch, report and maintain the health of the holistic life body in every corner of the Earth without limit of time and space.
New management system and ICT platforms rely on consistent electric power supply. We need to develop green energy as electric power industry is major factor of pollution and global warming. Most energy in nuclear power plant has been applied to heat up sea water and vaporize into the sky that can rise up temperature seriously. Green energy and green management undoubtedly are strong pillars to support sustainable development for the holistic life body.
With continuous high growth rate, Africa has become new engine to pull global economy. Walmart is landing in Lagos. Major manufacturing facilities moved to Africa like Japan Panasonic. Chinese companies have operated in Nigeria since 1980’s. I met chiefs of CCECC in 1982 when they started water bore hole contracts in Lagos and looked for railroads contracts.
Plan 1 is to construct river flow power plants combining irrigation canals in Nigeria with water flushing out of existing hydro generators to rotate river mills for additional 30,000 MW that equals to 20 nuclear power plants. It can irrigate farms for 30 million tons rice annual to improve food shortage and inconsistent power supply not mentioning to create huge employment. Plan 1 is a project of one stone for many birds.
A river generator can be installed in every 7 meters along irrigation canal with minimum water flow at 5 tons per second. 1 KM canal with slight slope at 0.3% can install 140 units of river flow generators at 15 KVA through 150 KVA each depending on water flow. 1 KM canal can equip 2 MW through 20 MW that 1,000 KM canal can install 2,000 MW through 20,000 MW.
In 1920’s Japanese engineer Yoichi Hatta built Wusanto Reservoir in Taiwan with irrigation canal 7,400 Km for rice farm of 145,000 hectares that could reap 3 times annual. Land, water and good weather are available in Nigeria that can develop farms of millions hectares with irrigation canals and river power plants. One hectare farm will produce rice 18 tons for 3 reaps annual.
Plan 1 can change Nigeria and Africa and benefit the global ecologically. USA and China compete in Nigeria and Africa very hard. China promoted railroads construction with loan at $6 billion dollars. IMF offered direct loan to governors at $3.2 billion dollars. I heard GE tried to involve in the railroads construction. Japan plans to invest $30 billion dollars in Africa. Employment, sufficient food and consistent power supply can support Nigeria to lead Africa nations to join the New Renaissance for global peace and sustainable development.
Dangote is an aggressive entrepreneur who might join us for Plan 1. He ranks 25 richest people and is nephew of my friend, Alh. Abdul Dantata. When I was in Nigeria, Abdul gave me his driver Alh. Uba who used to buy ice bars for young Aliko Dangote. Dongote cement can benefit since Plan 1 will need huge cement for river power plants and irrigation canal.
Dangote will donate generously if we can initiate Plan 1 with him and Nigeria president Buhari who is lack of convincing economy policy that a hot pot of food on fire becomes popular target of thieves. Buhari can use Nigerian agric bond to attract investors and complete Plan 1 if he can apply leverage properly. Global donors will support green energy industry in Nigeria if Buhari can show his determination. Good plan, advanced management and talent people will create hope and confidence for a nation and the world.
Plan 1 will attract $1 billion dollars donation and create annual revenue $10 trillion dollars in Africa. The core value of Plan 1 is by all means to prevent Africa from pollution and global warming like China and India. Eventually Plan 1 will attract investors to build river flow power plants with 700,000 MW globally that equal to 400 nuclear power plants. Irrigation canal will boom agric and housing communities synchronously that can develop new cities to attract investors and migrants for new economy in Nigeria and Africa.
European nations will collaborate to construct river power plants with irrigation canal for agric in Africa and in the Middle East to improve economy, ecology and peace. It can reduce refugees flooding into Europe like fleeces. Hopefully it will stop casualty drowned in the Mediterranean Sea.
Big waves attract great surfers. Great surfers can't attract big waves. Good leader can see the trend and keep right direction for delicate surf. I can see 4 trends are going to surge into big waves where we can approach for delicate surfs. New Renaissance will surge with ICT that can promote new platforms for communities, governments and public companies globally. The institution will rank as the 1st think tank in the world if leaders can find new trends of big waves and lead all teams to surf delicately.
Plan 2 is to reform China peacefully with 2 tactics that will turn China into a positive power for regional peace as well as free market for global enterprises. China market is still inaccessible to Facebook, media industry and many other sectors who are looking for tickets to China. They might join us if they learn our plan can benefit them hugely. Apple and Google have been tumbling in China from time to time. Donors from ICT industry and different sectors will donate $3 billion dollars for Plan 2 that will create $10 trillion dollars revenue annual.
Plan 2-1 is to reform China peacefully with platform of cloud conference in housing community management with direct democracy. It will support liberal leadership to emerge in China and open gate wider for global enterprises duly. How can we reform China into democracy when there is only one communist party? No matter one party or no party, residents in housing communities can use cloud conference to perform direct democracy that will create internal climate for liberal leadership.
Plan 2-2 is to mobilize people in global nations to carry out judiciary project in local courts and subvert the apex policy of China i.e. to occupy Taiwan. China has been lying that Taiwan is part of China and there is only one China. Most nations have tolerated Chinese lies for some benefit but lies can’t last forever when global people feel it is enough. Lie can’t never become the truth.
There are extreme groups against China in most nations. They can have suits in courts to win the verdict that Taiwan is not part of China and there are two China in the world. There is nothing wrong to have two China since there are two Congo and two Korea in UN. Nigeria is the only nation considers two China and accept Taiwan to register in the name of the Republic of China in Nigeria. The verdict surely will discredit leadership in Beijing and bring stronger impact than the South China Sea Arbitration has done. It will split leadership in Beijing and support emergence of liberal leadership.
Justice of speech is as important as freedom of speech. It is new trend in ICT century that human can solve global conflicts with judiciary power and public opinions instead of wars. Verdict of Plan 2-2 will become huge external power to shake dictatorship in Beijing that can collaborate with internal pressure from direct democracy in housing communities of Plan 2-1. Plan 2 will catalyze emergence of liberal leadership and lead China to join New Renaissance.
Plan 2 will reform China and North Korea with direct democracy and judiciary power peacefully that will attract $3 billion donation and create $10 trillion dollars revenue annual. Taiwan people can donate $1 billion dollars referring to Taiwan people donated $252 million dollars in 2011 for Japan tsunami.
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